Sport > A Dank Dusky Corner of The Internet

A Dank Dusky Corner of The Internet

Published: March 5, 2010

I'm so happy this Flickspin is here. The Internet has grown so big, so monstrous, there are so many places and so many people...and so little time. I'm now writing the third peice in a row that has my byline on this site. No one else is writing here with any frequency. I'm not the most prolific guy in the world, but here, here I'm like...wait let me google a reference on a prolific guy...ok, the top google hit for 'prolific guy' is Ghengis Khan. So I'm the Genghis Khan of Flickspin.

I'm feeling pretty good about that. It's not that I'm a big fish in a small pond, its more a smelly rotting fish on a beach. Which of course brings me back to surfing. Yes today I, Ghengis Khan, was out surfing. Sort of. I usually surf for 2-3 hours. If I'm going to make the effort to get to the beach, well I try to minimize the overhead is all. It's 15 minutes each way. Then 20-25 minutes to suit up and strip off the wetsuit, boots and gloves, Surfing in the winter just has overhead involved.

Oh, that reminds me, overhead. Yes, so on the drive to surfing today I'm on 163 coming down the hill from Washington Street. Some moron in a gold Toyota decides to make a race to the bottom of the hill. I'm on the high side of 80 MPH when the light bulb goes on over my head and I think, I've never gone over 80 with my board on the roof rack.

Ten minutes later I'm on I-5 and hear a rumble. I check the rear view mirror and note that my surfboard is now dangling over-top my trunk. That is actually good news as it is not dragging on the ground or tumbling into the car behind me. I pull off and find that the front roof rack has come off the rails. But the board is still tied to the rack. And the rear rack is holding. I'm probably done doing 80 down that hill.

I get the board and the rack inside the car and head up the road. I'm still enough of a newby that I don't know good from bad at the beach. I just show up, gear up and hop in. Which I did.

It wasn't a bad day. I had checked the tides and they were rising at 11 am. This is a beach break and it seems to do better on high tide. I don't have any professional expertise as either a oceanographer or a surfer to put behind that. But in this DDC of the Internet, who could even know?

So I plunge in. And I get a few OK rides. But nothing to write home about. This being a Friday, everyone who has a flex friday had the same idea. I had been here on Tuesday, Stingray day, and I had the beach almost to myself. Now it is Friday, boards and wetsuits everywhere.

Real surfers know that there are few surfable spots on a beach. They all gather there and somehow figure out who gets the wave. Then there are spots where no one in their right mind would surf. This is where Ghengis Khan would surf.

I end up in a blank place on the beach. I go "outside" where the big waves break. And I start to paddle. Its a 6-7 footer. As soon as I get up to speed with the wave, it closes out. A perfect wave is either a tube or an A-Frame. Good surfers stay just ahead of the whitewater. With a closeout, it all goes to white water at once in what is called a death wall.

The deathwall has just fallen on me like a ton of, um, Khan I guess. I'm under water for a long, long time. Way under and being held under. I think for a second of the other guys who aren't surfing, I mean scuba diving, here. Sure I'm not surfing, as this is totally unsurfable.

I got out of the water after 40 minutes. I see a guy a guy in the parking lot and he ask "Have fun?" I tell him "Not really..." But I can't explain why. he walks on 10 steps turns and asks "Because of the wind?" I say "Maybe". But I have no idea about the wind. When I go home I check and find that the wind was from the worst direction, West at 8 knots. It had been clear all morning, but literally as soon as I showed up at the beach, it went to crud.

But just like this DDC of the internet, I was there. And trying. And sure enough later I find a smaller wall, not a death wall, more of a maiming wall. And whadaya know? I surf that bad boy. I had two walls actually hitting me from each side and maybe they offset each other. It didn't matter. What mattered was that I was alone and standing, while my compatriots were floating in some line up a quarter mile south of me.

I suspect the same was true for the land-bound Ghengis. He probably took a few poundings along the way as he figured out just what a Khan was supposed be-a rider of maiming walls. And I'm sure I'll take a few more poundings on the seaside before I figure out how to make the big leagues.

But as for this Dank Dusky Corner...I'm finding myself quite happy here. So I'll close this with a note of thanks to the people who created this site. As well as a thanks to the people who gave me a west wind at exactly the moment I started surfing today.

Any Comments?


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